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Foreword

New York Penn Station, 1947.
Wendell Tandy, American officer, a medal on his uniform. It just crossed the Atlantic and Europe. He is impatient, he thinks of his family down there in Mississippi that he has not seen for years. He still has a long way to go before arriving in Jackson, his hometown. Wendell Tandy attends to his every gesture, gaze, perhaps to his own thoughts. His home is almost as dangerous as the front he just left.
Wendell Tandy is black. Pontchartrain when the train crossed the Mason-Dixon line, which demarcates the border between the former slave states and free states, it is almost over enemy territory. Mason-Dixon Line is the border historical, political, symbolic, between North and South of the United States. In North Pennsylvania. In Southern Maryland.

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South of the Mason-Dixon line

From Baltimore, Wendell Tandy has little chance of getting Dining in the restaurant of the train, where German POWs were seated comfortably. He is sitting in another car reserved for blacks, smaller, more rotten, more uncomfortable.

South of the Mason-Dixon line, Wendell will sit in the fifth rand on the back of the bus in the spaces reserved for the companions of color and leave his place at White will claim that the drinking at the fountain marked "colored" off the sidewalk to let the pale face, be careful not to exceed a white wire in the car ... if he dares to raise his eyes to the white woman who waits his ticket to the next window, separated from hers by a cordon of 7.5 meters in the bus station in Louisiana, Wendell risks his life. Tandy Wendell knows he must keep his place in a social and psychological condition of a slave.

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Strange Fruit

He may have heard Billie Holiday interpret the poem by Abel Meeropol, Strange Fruit , the indictment against lynchings commonly practiced in the southern United States.

Southern trees bear
strange fruit Blood on the leaves Blood at the root

Black body swinging in the Southern breeze Strange fruit hanging
From The poplar trees

trees bear a strange Southern fruit
Blood on the leaves, roots
Blood,
A black body swinging in the breeze, South
Strange fruit hanging on poplars.

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History of Jim Crow

Wendell is a fictional character, invented by Jerrold M. Packard, author of American Nightmare: The History of Jim Crow . A product of the imagination yet rooted in the American reality. That of Jim Crow. A character out of 19 music shows ^e century in which white people imitating black dancers. Jim Crow, the name given to segregationist who turns up after the Civil War. 1865? America has more slaves. 1965. A century and many years of struggle for civil rights for the descendants of slaves have the same rights as their white compatriots.

What to do if we capture Hitler alive? In the last months of the Second World War, a black American soldier, real one, responds: "Paint in black and condemn him to life in Mississippi! "

is almost here I go, some forty years after the passage of the Voting Right Acts which put an end to the rule of separate but equal " equal but separate . It is 2007, but mentally I am preparing to see a world in black and white. The southern United States. It's almost where I am now.

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Baltimore, Saturday, March 10, 2007

Yesterday I crossed the Mason-Dixon line. Jim Crow is very far. After forty, Maryland has a museum devoted to history and African American culture, the Reginald F. Lewis museum, named after a black lawyer and philanthropist born in Baltimore, who founded the first law firm Afro-American on Wall Street. Baltimore, the city where Billie Holiday spent the first years of his life. Pennsylvania Avenue, the main artery black under Jim Crow, which housed the jazz clubs, the center of life at the time, is now the heart of a rotten suburb where few people are willing to put their feet. "Honey, you do not want to go there," said a guardian of the museum. "Honey, you should not set foot there. "

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From Baltimore to New Orleans Wednesday, March 14

Blacks, the majority in Baltimore, will sit more in the fifth row of buses. But they inhabit the bus much more likely than whites who generally afford a car. The line has slipped but is still there. Segregation is dead. No racism, and inequality.

I take the subway, wondering if I'm supposed to take a transfer to the commuter train ... A guy says no, he must buy another ticket. He pulls out his wallet, in case I do not have enough money. I'm tired. He is black. It's weird to see life in black and white. I am not accustomed. I'm not accustomed to gaff age or gender of people with whom I speak.

I am at Judith and Jeffrey Kremen, parents of a friend, Sarah, whom I knew in France. They are cultured, liberal (in the American sense of the word), Jewish but not religious. To me they are very European. When Adelaide's mother, Judith, sought a home in Washington after the war, the buses were still segregated. "At the time, the regulations attached to the land prohibited from selling to blacks or Jews," said Judith . She is a historian, unbeatable on many subjects. She is the daughter of his mother, Adelaide, 94 years, still going strong, which reads the newspaper every day and is aware of everything that happens in the world.

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an airport called Louis Armstrong New Orleans

Baltimore museum. New Orleans has an airport called Louis Armstrong. As a collective memory that seeks forgiveness. I fly over the heart of the South. I wanted to take time to arrive in New Orleans. Getting there slowly, find an angle of attack. Traveling by train or catch a Greyhound bus. But I fly. I'm in a hurry.

Tomorrow I am meeting with Denise Duffy New Orleans. Denise Duffy is co-founder of Music Maker Relief Foundation, a nonprofit organization that helps musicians enrolled in the musical traditions of southern United States. Denise is the executive director of the association founded with her husband, Tim, in 1994. With Music Maker, I discovered in France, Blues Passions Festival Cognac Blues, musicians like Adolphus Bell.
In 2005, he heard his delta blues festival Nancy Jazz Pulsations, played with Taj Mahal in Costa Rica and is about to go on tour throughout Europe, South America and the United States. Adolphus Bell, blazing in his white tuxedo, he lived a few years ago in a caravan in Birmingham, Alabama. Music Maker paid him teeth, helped him repair his car and retrieve his guitar left in pledge at pawnshop.

Music Maker offered him a career after 35 long years trying to survive somehow, more harm than good.

For Louis Armstrong how many talented musicians left in oblivion?

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, cradle of jazz

Everyone's career is not the one who came to personify the Jazz. Louis Armstrong is the child of the Big Easy , born at the turn of 20 th century in a neighborhood so inviting it was dubbed The Battlefield, the field of battle. You do not see hardly any trace today. At the corner of Loyola and Perdido, the skyscrapers and the Holiday Inn have taken the place of shacks in which the small Louis delivered the coal to prostitutes on behalf of a family of Jewish immigrants from Russia. Louis has learned to use the trumpet. It is less known, but it was also the star of David, in honor of this family who fed and cared for him.

The battlefield is now the business district.

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On Thursday, March 15 Canal Street

The type of the India House told me that the whole area north of Broad Avenue has found flooded after Katrina. I go down two blocks on Canal Street. Sentenced windows, doors smashed, signs twisted ... I'm walking on the avenue, the heart open to the unknown. But I'm really not on the Champs-Elysees.

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workers are busy in front of a rotten building. I take pictures " The roof was blown" , "said a type hats. His name is Dave, holds out his hand and asked me where I am. "From France ? So you do not hate us there? "In France when you do not hate us over there? "I given a tour of the damage. The ground floor flooded, devastated. "It's not just the hurricane, there were mostly looting throughout the city. They all ripped, cables, electrical son, gas lines ... New Orleans has suffered as much from Katrina looters. "

Opposite Dave shows me a school which reopened a few months ago. He took out 40 dumpsters of trash. Dave has a Harley, he wants me to tour the damage to Biloxi, Mississippi along the Gulf of Mexico. This part of the coast which took the full brunt of the hurricane. Dave gives me his phone number. I take.

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A tour of the damage in New Orleans Bourbon Street

as I ride the streetcar on Canal Street. I go down to Mississippi, to the heart of historic New Orleans . and I no longer see the traces of Katrina. As long as we stay in tourist areas in Le Vieux Carre, or the Garden District, built above the sea level, New Orleans resembles photos of tourist brochures. With its villas, its colorful facades and wrought iron balconies. Inviolate.

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preserved a myth that has lived with Denise Duffy

It does not wander in the French Quarter (Vieux Carré on) as they wander north of Canal Street. On Bourbon Street, I meet tourists with Mickey T-shirts, past signs of topless women, am assailed by neon and aggressive music. Bourbon Street is like the myths that have lived and no longer live. A tourist trap. The worst thing is everybody knows and everybody goes there.

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In a neighborhood supermarket, call Denise Duffy. She arrived in Durham, North Carolina, where is based Music Maker. Five minutes later, Denise is there, in front of an old Chevrolet station wagon that tumbles the corner of Royal and St. Peter and me honking. Miniature snowmen around an American flag sat on the dashboard.

I " Nice to meet you .

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Welcome to New Orleans is an old story

Long hair, drooping mustache, round glasses, also a hefty sandwich station, the driver has a physical the Willy Deville. the back, a blonde opens the door and holds out a bottle of liquor by way of introduction. Welcome to New Orleans, the city Orangina. But I do not even need to shake. A New Orleans , the pulp does not stay down. It floats everywhere, from neck to bottom of the bottle.

Denise introduce myself. Willy Deville is actually called Mickey. Or Slewfoot. Or Daniel McLaughlin after his marital status. His companion and stage of life called Cary Bee, my official supplying liquor. He plays guitar and harmonica. It is a bassist. They Passions Blues last summer, loved and welcomed me as if I needed a favor, while for the first time in four years, I was not in Cognac that summer.

Cary front teeth all crooked. She was attacked a month ago, fell headfirst onto the sidewalk. Cary throws me: "I'm glad you're French. America is so rotten. Here, if you do nothing, you're nothing. There are the have and the have-nots. " No need to be clairvoyant to know that Mickey and Cary are among the have-nots , those who have nothing, or very little. They did not, but I like them already.

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Between Tim Duffy and Mickey is an old story. Tim, guitarist, met him at a club in Durham in the early 90. A the time, Mickey hosted a radio show about the blues on the campus of Duke University. Music Maker has produced the last two CDs Slewfoot and Cary B. A third is about to exit.

Ties were further strengthened after Katrina. Mickey and Gary spent two months with Tim and Denise Duffy. They were in West Virginia, where the parents live in Cary, when the hurricane struck New Orleans. They were of the bowl. Their apartment, in height and sheltered in the Garden District, did not suffer. Mickey and Cary are income to New Orleans after Christmas.

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"Ah! Yet another musician, poor and black

It is on Frenchmen Street, close to the French Quarter, in a small Italian restaurant above the club. I eat pasta with oysters seasoned with Pernod. It's super good. New Orleans , city to share in the U.S. for its musical culture and its food. "Katrina was particularly devastating for the musicians, said Denise before his fish dish. Here they can play any year in the clubs. The closure of the city was terrible for them. "I Chow, ears wide open.

Denise continued: "You gotta know they have no recognition here as musicians. In the U.S., people say "Oh! Yet another musician, poor and black. " I can not even tell you what brings them to tour Europe. The recognition they have over there completely changes how they see themselves. We, as producers, we see the difference even in their play. They are improving, they play better. Because they consider themselves at last. "